Why is bamboo coming in for a bad rap? 

Often, the conversation with a new client starts with ‘ We inherited this bamboo when we bought the house, but now our neighbours have asked us to get it under control.’

It’s usually from this point that a forensic investigation of the plant root system leads to trying to remove the plant in full. Chemicals don’t work and digging out rarely does the trick. This is when the mother of all grading sieves is used to remove every trace of the bamboo from the soil.

More drastic measures are sometimes needed involving a mini digger, a metre deep trench, a new fence panel or two, lots of tea with all parties and new top soil to replace the whole.

Its at this stage the original client asks ‘ how the hell did we get here?”

Let’s look at the bamboo facts

Bamboo is an evergreen, architectural grass used for privacy screening, wind filtering, and a “lush” look with movement. It is popular because it grows quickly and stays green through winter.  

Most common bamboos you will find locally (and why they were planted) 

Typical examples you will see planted for screening: 

  • Fargesia robusta (often sold for tall privacy hedging) 
  • Fargesia nitida (also used for dense screening)   

Why it was planted 

  • “Bamboo hedge” looked without the stress of runners 
  • Dense, upright habit for privacy 
  • Easier to keep within a border than running types   

Common mistake 

  • Planted right on a boundary without enough bed width or long-term pruning plan → becomes bulky and shades borders. 

Phyllostachys (running bamboo / fast, dramatic canes) 

The ones you will most often spot: 

  • Phyllostachys aurea (golden stems) 
  • Phyllostachys nigra (black stems)   

Why it was planted 

  • Fast impact screen 
  • Showy cane colours 
  • Tall “instant jungle” vibe   

The issue 

  • These are runners: they spread via rhizomes and are often planted along boundaries, which is exactly where problems start.  

Pseudosasa japonica (Arrow bamboo) 

Often used as a chunky screen and for a broader-leaf look; classed among runners.  

Sasa / Pleioblastus (ground-cover bamboos) 

Lower types used for ground cover but can form spreading thickets if ignored.  

How bamboo should be planted now (best practice) 

Step 1 — choose the right habit 

  • Safest default for residential gardens: clump-forming Fargesia.  
  • If a client insists on Phyllostachys / runners, treat it like a contained system from day one (below). 

Step 2 — plant at the right time + in the right conditions 

  • Best time to plant spring, so the plant can push new canes and root in before dormancy.  
  • Site: sun to partial shade, sheltered if possible; soil ideally moist, fertile, free draining.  

Step 3 — containment (if there is any risk of running) 

RHS best practice is a physical barrier system: 

  • Dig trench at least 60cm deep (ideally deeper for big runners) 
  • Use an impenetrable barrier (root barrier / slabs / corrugated iron) 
  • Overlap joins by 30cm and bond; barrier should stand ~7.5cm above soil to stop rhizomes going over the top   

Step 4 — containers as a “no drama” solution 

  • Many bamboos do well in containers, but they must be big (45cm+ deep) and watered more.  

Cultivation through the year (NW Hampshire rhythm) 

Winter (Dec–Feb) 

  • Inspect boundary lines and hard edges for new shoots. 
  • Remove dead / damaged canes for tidiness. 
  • Plan any containment works (barrier installation is easier when borders are open). 

Spring (Mar–May) 

  • Planting window (best time).  
  • Mulch to hold moisture; water well as growth kicks off. 
  • If you are keeping runners, this is when you will see early “escape” activity — catch it early. 

Summer (Jun–Aug) 

  • Water during dry spells (especially containers and light soils).  
  • Thin/select canes if the clump is getting too dense (better airflow + nicer cane display). 

Autumn (Sep–Nov) 

  • Check barriers and trench lines before winter. 
  • Cut out any unwanted spread while soil is still workable. 

Annual control choice (for established plants) 

  • Trench method: RHS suggests a trench about 30cm deep, about 30–50cm out from the edge, severing and removing rhizomes that have crossed. Doing this at least once a year keeps many bamboos in check.  

Bamboo is a versatile plant when is boxed in. If you have a bamboo ‘land grabber’ we can help

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